Respecting our fishing space is becoming more of an annoyance than a so called problem, especially in the Spring on the river and the first nice days of the year.
People that don’t fish a lot, or with families, just want to get out on that first warm sunny day and wet the line. That’s great and I love to see families out enjoying the day on the water, however here are a few things to keep in mind. It's a little more than just plopping the boat in the water and cozying up to the pack because that’s where you think the fish are, or getting close to chat with the other fisherman. We fishermen are a friendly bunch but when you float over our lines on a nice drift, or you're so close the cast from little Johnny ends up in your boat, we may cringe and mumble under our breath a bit. If it continues we may give you a few words of wisdom on boat edict you may or may not like to hear.
Before you decide to charge to a spot to fish, look the area over to see if there are any boats where you want to fish. Chances are if it’s a good spot most fisherman know about it already and someone will be there. With all the fishermen now days there aren’t too many secret spots anymore. If there are boats there you may want to start off somewhere else.
If it is on a river, be sure to watch for fishing lines. You do not want to go over anybody’s lines or cut off their drift. If you choose to anchor make sure you leave enough room between boats so that you don’t drift into their casting range. Where you stop and anchor isn’t always where you end up stopping, especially on a river. You should leave out about 30 ft of rope in current to get the proper position and always go about 30ft beyond your target spot. Here's a little trick I like to do, drop a buoy where I want the boat to be and then go beyond that point. Then drop anchor and float back to the buoy and tie off. If its peak fishing time and there are a lot of boats out that's ok to slowly move up to the pack and ask if you may join them. Remember were a friendly bunch of fisherman.
Also on the river and when you are moving from spot to spot sometimes the river narrows. Try to respect the guys fishing when you fly by in your 20ft ranger with a 250hp and the wake tosses the guy in the John boat 20ft up on shore. That may make Americas Funniest Videos, but you better hope he won't be waiting for you at the launch for some of that fishermen’s advice he may show, if you know what I mean.
Have respect for others and treat them like you would expect them to treat you. Besides having respect here are other things that are important to remember when you are out enjoying the day on the water. Be sure you have all your equipment working and those batteries charged. Many times I’ve seen a boat get into the middle of other boats and drop the good ole Minn Kota and she doesn’t work...dead battery! The next thing you know your bumping into your fellow fisherman’s new boat. Make sure you have all your life jackets and safety items your boat requires, be safe and enjoy a day of fishing.
It's also very helpful to get up to date fishing reports from fishermen just like you. A great resource for all fisherman that I like to visit is www.lake-links.com. You can also try your local bait shop or call a local guide. They are more than willing to give you some good up to date information on bait tackle and areas to fish and if there are any hazards to avoid.
Lastly always remember to take only what you need to eat, take a reliable camera to get a good picture of the catch of the day, and keep fishing.
Gary
***You can also find my article arriving soon in the May 2010 edition at www.badgersportsman.com
Sunday, April 25, 2010
Monday, February 22, 2010
Frabill Thermal Igloo Pro Tip-up
When Frabill came out with this tip-up I wasn’t sure what to think, but being a fisherman who has to try everything. I bought a couple of Frabill thermals and on the first ice fishing outing I went on I was sold on them. It was a very cold and windy day with bright sunshine. The Frabill Thermal Igloo Pro Tip-up eliminates ice up in the hole, stops the snow from blowing into the hole and keeps the hole dark so it looks like the natural ice from below, which makes a big difference in shallow water.
The Frabill Thermal also has a small built in tackle compartment which is very handy if you break your line, or need a sinker, or bobber. There is also a minnow clip you can set heavy or light depending on what you’re fishing for. The bright orange color and large orange flag are easy to spot even at long range.
The Frabill Thermal also has a small built in tackle compartment which is very handy if you break your line, or need a sinker, or bobber. There is also a minnow clip you can set heavy or light depending on what you’re fishing for. The bright orange color and large orange flag are easy to spot even at long range.
The key to the Frabill Thermal Igloo Pro Tip-up is the Styrofoam insulation built into the 10” round design, it covers the hole and keeps the air warm so it wont ice over. The best thing of all is they fit right into your 5 or 6 gallon bucket, depending on the bucket size you can put 6 or 8 Frabill Thermal Igloo Pro Tip-ups in, what a great easy and neat way to store your tip-ups.
You can find these while supplies last at Gander Mountain and Bass Pro Shops
Gary
Saturday, February 6, 2010
Hard Water Walleye Strategy's
To many ice fishing lures to choose from. And with so little time to fish them, so much worry about choosing the right lure, given the situation. no magic lure will ever assure success. Walleyes can always be caught on more than one lure, and often even on widely different lure styles. Yet the intent remains to experiment to find the one lure, likely from among several choices, that works best.
There is a small contingency of options, each in several sizes and basic finishes, that traveled with me all over the state of Wisconsin. I have not found it necessary to switch to local hot lures to be successful.
Here are 3 lure categories that work for me
First category; Jigs and live bait. Hook the minnow in reverse so it struggles away from the weight of the head of a plain jig. The weight should match the size of the minnow and the depth being fished. The weight must be just light enough to encourage the minnow to swim, but not so light that the minnow can get away. For walleyes, I usually use a 1/16 or 1/8 oz jig coupled with a 3 to 5 inch shiner or fathead minnow.
Line; 6# Power pro or Berkley Fire line with a swivel and 18" 6# fluorocarbon leader. Line visibility isn't a big factor after dark, though it might be during the day and into the twilight. More important is to get lures to fall or swing seductively. Line that's too light is as detrimental to presentation as line that's too heavy.
The second category; swimming lures; is for me a small one, consisting of three baits, the classic Jigging Rapala, the Nils Master Jigger, and the new Nils Master Jigger Shad. Lifted sharply 1 1/2 feet or so, these swimming lures dart up and out before thumping down and then swinging back directly below the hole. The #7 Rapala and #2 Nils Master Jiggers are the most popular sizes for walleyes.
Swimming lures perform subtly compared to the more intense flash and vibration of a flash lure. These lures tend to work best in clearer water, particularly during the changing light periods of dawn and dusk. Most anglers tip them with a minnow head or spikes, again to tempt reluctant walleyes. Add the scent option to the treble hook hanging below the middle of the bait. In current, add scent option to the trailing body hook. Small fish often target the fish head or spikes, while larger walleyes usually eat the entire bait. I must tell you, that during most key evening feedings, I rarely find it necessary to tip swimming baits.
Get the Rapala Jigging Rap starting at $4.29!
Third category; Lures; The key to confidence remains, first, stocking lures from each of three categories. Flash lures, like the classic Bay de Noc Swedish Pimple and the Acme Kastmaster make up one category. These lures attract fish via flash and vibration as they're jigged up and allowed to settle back. Tip them with a minnow head to entice fish to bite when they move in close.
Most anglers understand the flash connection, but fail to see how important vibration is to attracting fish. Fish often feel baits before they see them. This category gets split again to add the bent lures, like the Bay de Noc Do Jigger and Jig A Whopper Rocker minnow. I also use a few super action flash lures like the Reef Runner Slender Spoon and the Blue Fox Tingler.
Get the Bay De Noc Swedish Pimple Lures starting at $3.29!
Attracting walleyes and enticing a bite
Each jigging motion includes an attraction and a triggering phase. First, attract walleyes, then get them to bite once they've been drawn close. The lift and fall of the bait serves as the attracting maneuver, while the pause allows a walleye to bite. All the little jiggles added during or after the basic lift-fall maneuver are just small, but sometimes significant variations on a general theme, everyone has their own unique style of jigging. Jiggles can be particularly important when using a swimming jig. My basic approach would be a lift-fall-pause 5-10 seconds, followed by a jiggle, jiggle-jiggle, followed by another lift-fall. Jiggle only enough to get the bait to roll slightly left-right, left-right on its axis. creating the same sort of flash that makes minnows or crank baits attractive to walleyes in open water. a lift-fall with an anchored minnow is subtle by comparison. Gently lift the jig and minnow a foot or so, then let it flutter and flash down to the position from which it began. Then pause for at least 30 seconds to let the minnow do its thing. I usually lift-fall-pause through several sequences, then pause for several minutes, or more, with the rod sitting on a bucket or in a rod holder on a bucket. This is dead sticking the minnow will do its thing.
The best lures produce the most vibration without tangling often. As a rule, small, heavy, bent baits work best, while wide thin baits that fall horizontally tend to tangle. Baits I've used successfully include the Jig-A-Whopper Rocker Minnow, Bay de Noc Swedish Pimple and the Acme Thunderbolt. Add a swivel and a 18" leader to reduce line twist.
Adding a scent to the jig is still vital. Eyes removed from dead perch stay on best, but minnow heads work well so long as the hook's run up through the skull. On larger longer lures, pinch off the minnow head right behind the gills, I always let the entrails hang when possible, both for visual appeal and additional scent. Change the minnow head or perch eye regularly to freshen the scent around the bait.
Fish Locators
The two classic locators that work on ice remain the Vexilar FL-18 with ultra pack and the Humminbird Ice 55 flasher, but just having any locator will be of great help.
Good flashers makes our ice fishing more efficient, also more fun. Instead of just guessing, you can see fish come in and see how they react to your bait and movements. Don't know how we fished without flashers when I was a young lad. Sure missed out on a lot of fun and how many walleyes I missed.
About half the walleyes I catch each year are caught because of something I've added to my presentation after seeing how walleyes react. A walleye swims in. Lift-fall again. No hit, so I jiggle the bait and I get a reaction. Jiggle again, wham.
Another walleye comes in and I repeat the same movements I caught the last walleye and no luck. Time to change tactics. my favorite move now is to raise the bait up about 6" above the walleye, jiggle stop jiggle stop, then slowly raise it about another 6" and wham. They can't resist the bait going away.
Hurry to get this Humminbird ICE-55 for $499.99!
Or when fishing the river channel in 25' to 30' feet of water. particularly flowages with suspended bait fish like shad or perch lots of walleye come in high as much as 10 feet off the bottom. I've caught loads of these walleyes over the last 15 years that I wouldn't have caught without my Vexilar.
Dueling for Walleyes
I use a duel presentation that primarily relies on jigging, but also incorporates live bait when necessary. A jigging rod is required, the objective is to keep jigging. Actively presenting a lure to trigger walleyes. Even when fishing turns ugly, the right combination of lure and jigging motion usually results in some walleyes.
The second part of this duel system is a deadstick. The deadstick is a lighter rod than the primary jigging rod, it's used to present a lively minnow tail hooked on a jig. Drop the jig and minnow to the bottom and reel up about 6" or so. Then place the rod in a rod holder on your bucket. The tip of the rod should be light enough so the minnow can work the tip as it struggles. Meanwhile, wind also works the tip, aggravating the minnow to move. At the same time you're working the jig stick nearby.
From my experiences jigging will produce most of your fish. Often the deadstick will ice the extra walleyes that are the difference between a good day and a great day. When you're having a very difficult day, deadsticking makes the difference between hot dogs and a great meal of walleyes.
If your catching most of your fish deadsticking, then you need to change how you are jigging. If your tail hooking your jig on the deadstick, then do the same on your jigging rod. This way you have the minnow only action on the deadstick, and you can be a little more aggressive with the same presentation on the jig rod. Lift and pause jiggle, jiggle bounce in the mud or sand and slowly raise the jig a foot or two. This way you will catch the non active and more aggressive walleyes at the same time.
I always try to keep it simple when ice fishing walleyes. The secret lures that we all think are out there, really aren't. First thing is to be fishing at the right time and the right area. A top notch fish locator is your best friend. The walleyes generally are the same where ever you fish , you may have to tweak little things like baits or colors, but deadsticking and jigging motions are much the same wherever you fish walleyes. The tips I've offered here will work for you just as they have for me in many of the rivers, lakes, and reservoirs everywhere I've fished.
Remember be safe and keep fishing,
Gary
***You can also find my article in the March 2010 edition at badgersportsman
There is a small contingency of options, each in several sizes and basic finishes, that traveled with me all over the state of Wisconsin. I have not found it necessary to switch to local hot lures to be successful.
Here are 3 lure categories that work for me
First category; Jigs and live bait. Hook the minnow in reverse so it struggles away from the weight of the head of a plain jig. The weight should match the size of the minnow and the depth being fished. The weight must be just light enough to encourage the minnow to swim, but not so light that the minnow can get away. For walleyes, I usually use a 1/16 or 1/8 oz jig coupled with a 3 to 5 inch shiner or fathead minnow.
Line; 6# Power pro or Berkley Fire line with a swivel and 18" 6# fluorocarbon leader. Line visibility isn't a big factor after dark, though it might be during the day and into the twilight. More important is to get lures to fall or swing seductively. Line that's too light is as detrimental to presentation as line that's too heavy.
The second category; swimming lures; is for me a small one, consisting of three baits, the classic Jigging Rapala, the Nils Master Jigger, and the new Nils Master Jigger Shad. Lifted sharply 1 1/2 feet or so, these swimming lures dart up and out before thumping down and then swinging back directly below the hole. The #7 Rapala and #2 Nils Master Jiggers are the most popular sizes for walleyes.
Swimming lures perform subtly compared to the more intense flash and vibration of a flash lure. These lures tend to work best in clearer water, particularly during the changing light periods of dawn and dusk. Most anglers tip them with a minnow head or spikes, again to tempt reluctant walleyes. Add the scent option to the treble hook hanging below the middle of the bait. In current, add scent option to the trailing body hook. Small fish often target the fish head or spikes, while larger walleyes usually eat the entire bait. I must tell you, that during most key evening feedings, I rarely find it necessary to tip swimming baits.
Get the Rapala Jigging Rap starting at $4.29!
Third category; Lures; The key to confidence remains, first, stocking lures from each of three categories. Flash lures, like the classic Bay de Noc Swedish Pimple and the Acme Kastmaster make up one category. These lures attract fish via flash and vibration as they're jigged up and allowed to settle back. Tip them with a minnow head to entice fish to bite when they move in close.
Most anglers understand the flash connection, but fail to see how important vibration is to attracting fish. Fish often feel baits before they see them. This category gets split again to add the bent lures, like the Bay de Noc Do Jigger and Jig A Whopper Rocker minnow. I also use a few super action flash lures like the Reef Runner Slender Spoon and the Blue Fox Tingler.
Get the Bay De Noc Swedish Pimple Lures starting at $3.29!
Attracting walleyes and enticing a bite
Each jigging motion includes an attraction and a triggering phase. First, attract walleyes, then get them to bite once they've been drawn close. The lift and fall of the bait serves as the attracting maneuver, while the pause allows a walleye to bite. All the little jiggles added during or after the basic lift-fall maneuver are just small, but sometimes significant variations on a general theme, everyone has their own unique style of jigging. Jiggles can be particularly important when using a swimming jig. My basic approach would be a lift-fall-pause 5-10 seconds, followed by a jiggle, jiggle-jiggle, followed by another lift-fall. Jiggle only enough to get the bait to roll slightly left-right, left-right on its axis. creating the same sort of flash that makes minnows or crank baits attractive to walleyes in open water. a lift-fall with an anchored minnow is subtle by comparison. Gently lift the jig and minnow a foot or so, then let it flutter and flash down to the position from which it began. Then pause for at least 30 seconds to let the minnow do its thing. I usually lift-fall-pause through several sequences, then pause for several minutes, or more, with the rod sitting on a bucket or in a rod holder on a bucket. This is dead sticking the minnow will do its thing.
The best lures produce the most vibration without tangling often. As a rule, small, heavy, bent baits work best, while wide thin baits that fall horizontally tend to tangle. Baits I've used successfully include the Jig-A-Whopper Rocker Minnow, Bay de Noc Swedish Pimple and the Acme Thunderbolt. Add a swivel and a 18" leader to reduce line twist.
Adding a scent to the jig is still vital. Eyes removed from dead perch stay on best, but minnow heads work well so long as the hook's run up through the skull. On larger longer lures, pinch off the minnow head right behind the gills, I always let the entrails hang when possible, both for visual appeal and additional scent. Change the minnow head or perch eye regularly to freshen the scent around the bait.
Fish Locators
The two classic locators that work on ice remain the Vexilar FL-18 with ultra pack and the Humminbird Ice 55 flasher, but just having any locator will be of great help.
Good flashers makes our ice fishing more efficient, also more fun. Instead of just guessing, you can see fish come in and see how they react to your bait and movements. Don't know how we fished without flashers when I was a young lad. Sure missed out on a lot of fun and how many walleyes I missed.
About half the walleyes I catch each year are caught because of something I've added to my presentation after seeing how walleyes react. A walleye swims in. Lift-fall again. No hit, so I jiggle the bait and I get a reaction. Jiggle again, wham.
Another walleye comes in and I repeat the same movements I caught the last walleye and no luck. Time to change tactics. my favorite move now is to raise the bait up about 6" above the walleye, jiggle stop jiggle stop, then slowly raise it about another 6" and wham. They can't resist the bait going away.
Hurry to get this Humminbird ICE-55 for $499.99!
Or when fishing the river channel in 25' to 30' feet of water. particularly flowages with suspended bait fish like shad or perch lots of walleye come in high as much as 10 feet off the bottom. I've caught loads of these walleyes over the last 15 years that I wouldn't have caught without my Vexilar.
Dueling for Walleyes
I use a duel presentation that primarily relies on jigging, but also incorporates live bait when necessary. A jigging rod is required, the objective is to keep jigging. Actively presenting a lure to trigger walleyes. Even when fishing turns ugly, the right combination of lure and jigging motion usually results in some walleyes.
The second part of this duel system is a deadstick. The deadstick is a lighter rod than the primary jigging rod, it's used to present a lively minnow tail hooked on a jig. Drop the jig and minnow to the bottom and reel up about 6" or so. Then place the rod in a rod holder on your bucket. The tip of the rod should be light enough so the minnow can work the tip as it struggles. Meanwhile, wind also works the tip, aggravating the minnow to move. At the same time you're working the jig stick nearby.
From my experiences jigging will produce most of your fish. Often the deadstick will ice the extra walleyes that are the difference between a good day and a great day. When you're having a very difficult day, deadsticking makes the difference between hot dogs and a great meal of walleyes.
If your catching most of your fish deadsticking, then you need to change how you are jigging. If your tail hooking your jig on the deadstick, then do the same on your jigging rod. This way you have the minnow only action on the deadstick, and you can be a little more aggressive with the same presentation on the jig rod. Lift and pause jiggle, jiggle bounce in the mud or sand and slowly raise the jig a foot or two. This way you will catch the non active and more aggressive walleyes at the same time.
I always try to keep it simple when ice fishing walleyes. The secret lures that we all think are out there, really aren't. First thing is to be fishing at the right time and the right area. A top notch fish locator is your best friend. The walleyes generally are the same where ever you fish , you may have to tweak little things like baits or colors, but deadsticking and jigging motions are much the same wherever you fish walleyes. The tips I've offered here will work for you just as they have for me in many of the rivers, lakes, and reservoirs everywhere I've fished.
Remember be safe and keep fishing,
Gary
***You can also find my article in the March 2010 edition at badgersportsman
Monday, January 18, 2010
Basics for Ice Fishing Walleyes
There's no need to wait for Spring, Summer, or Fall when it comes to fishing for walleye. Fishing through the hard water is a great way to get you through the Winter months.
Factors that affect movements of walleye
There are numerous reason that would affect the movements of walleye during the winter. For example, they tend to move into deeper water which may be due to the dropping of the water temperature. The walleye can fall into their comfort zone of a preferred and maximum temperature of approximately 39 degrees.
In the Winter months the there is also the fact that the daytime is shortened coupled with snow cover and ice. These factors will greatly deteriorate aquatic plant life and cause the weeds to turn brown until they wilt and die. The elimination of weeds can mean the loss of their food source, protective cover and oxygen.
Walleye will also move deeper when they are bothered by different types of fishing traffic such as snowmobiles, cars, and noisy trucks. Any ruckus happening on the top of the ice will force the walleye to move to the bottom. This is more common on shallow lakes where as on deep lakes the surface noise isn't much of a concern.
How to find Walleye
To truly succeed ice fishing walleyes, you should know when to fish. You may just have to settle for a late trip during the Winter. As Spring nears walleye will be getting ready to spawn as soon as the ice goes out especially on the rivers.
Ice fishing is very challenging in the dead of winter because you will need to think of the water below such as structure and currents, deep holes, river bends as well as the movement of the fish during the day. The top priority to finding walleye is locating the bait fish and some type of structure.
Flexibility is another important key in locating walleye when you are on the ice. You will need to be able to move from one location to another. This is due to the fact that the walleyes will move throughout the day, and you should be able to locate the school of walleyes and follow their movement. Always being mobile is the key to catching more walleye.
Know where they will likely spawn
When late winter settles in, the walleye will begin to move looking for specific locations where they can spawn. If you are aware of their spawning routes, you can start drilling holes at different depths and wait for the walleye to swim through. They usually swim in big schools. So the action can be fast and furious for a time. It will make it very easy to catch the walleye if you know where they are likely to spawn. Once the water temperature starts to rise they will begin moving into the area. They are usually hungry and will make you a happy fisherman with a bucket full of eyes.
When is the best time to fish
Late afternoon, evening or early morning are usually the best time to ice fish for walleye The reason you fish at these times for walleye is that the chances are greater for success and there are not as many anglers at these times. It would also be extremely helpful if you can drill holes in different locations and in varying depths. You shouldn't expect that you will be able to get fish when you settle for fishing the same depth with all your tip ups. Spread your holes out, some shallow some deep and jig some holes along with the tip ups.
Most anglers use many different jigging techniques to attract walleye because it offers something different to the fish besides just tip ups. Since they will be somewhat aggressive during their feeding frenzy, you can use Gulp Alive or plastics to tip your lure as opposed to live bait. Sometimes when fish are aggressive using no bait or plastic at all on your jigging Rapala or Chubby Darter works just as well.
Remember safety first
Always remember ice isn't totally safe ever, so be prepared when out on the ice. Bring a safe line, ice picks, flotation vest, ice cleats for your boots. Ask the locals for the ice conditions, good ice depths are 4" to walk on, 6" for ATV's or snowmobiles, and 16" for trucks. Don't take chances if you're not sure, stay off the ice. It's not worth an accident for a fish. The fish will always be there for next time.
Good luck and keep fishing,
Gary
Factors that affect movements of walleye
There are numerous reason that would affect the movements of walleye during the winter. For example, they tend to move into deeper water which may be due to the dropping of the water temperature. The walleye can fall into their comfort zone of a preferred and maximum temperature of approximately 39 degrees.
In the Winter months the there is also the fact that the daytime is shortened coupled with snow cover and ice. These factors will greatly deteriorate aquatic plant life and cause the weeds to turn brown until they wilt and die. The elimination of weeds can mean the loss of their food source, protective cover and oxygen.
Walleye will also move deeper when they are bothered by different types of fishing traffic such as snowmobiles, cars, and noisy trucks. Any ruckus happening on the top of the ice will force the walleye to move to the bottom. This is more common on shallow lakes where as on deep lakes the surface noise isn't much of a concern.
How to find Walleye
To truly succeed ice fishing walleyes, you should know when to fish. You may just have to settle for a late trip during the Winter. As Spring nears walleye will be getting ready to spawn as soon as the ice goes out especially on the rivers.
Ice fishing is very challenging in the dead of winter because you will need to think of the water below such as structure and currents, deep holes, river bends as well as the movement of the fish during the day. The top priority to finding walleye is locating the bait fish and some type of structure.
Flexibility is another important key in locating walleye when you are on the ice. You will need to be able to move from one location to another. This is due to the fact that the walleyes will move throughout the day, and you should be able to locate the school of walleyes and follow their movement. Always being mobile is the key to catching more walleye.
Know where they will likely spawn
When late winter settles in, the walleye will begin to move looking for specific locations where they can spawn. If you are aware of their spawning routes, you can start drilling holes at different depths and wait for the walleye to swim through. They usually swim in big schools. So the action can be fast and furious for a time. It will make it very easy to catch the walleye if you know where they are likely to spawn. Once the water temperature starts to rise they will begin moving into the area. They are usually hungry and will make you a happy fisherman with a bucket full of eyes.
When is the best time to fish
Late afternoon, evening or early morning are usually the best time to ice fish for walleye The reason you fish at these times for walleye is that the chances are greater for success and there are not as many anglers at these times. It would also be extremely helpful if you can drill holes in different locations and in varying depths. You shouldn't expect that you will be able to get fish when you settle for fishing the same depth with all your tip ups. Spread your holes out, some shallow some deep and jig some holes along with the tip ups.
Most anglers use many different jigging techniques to attract walleye because it offers something different to the fish besides just tip ups. Since they will be somewhat aggressive during their feeding frenzy, you can use Gulp Alive or plastics to tip your lure as opposed to live bait. Sometimes when fish are aggressive using no bait or plastic at all on your jigging Rapala or Chubby Darter works just as well.
Remember safety first
Always remember ice isn't totally safe ever, so be prepared when out on the ice. Bring a safe line, ice picks, flotation vest, ice cleats for your boots. Ask the locals for the ice conditions, good ice depths are 4" to walk on, 6" for ATV's or snowmobiles, and 16" for trucks. Don't take chances if you're not sure, stay off the ice. It's not worth an accident for a fish. The fish will always be there for next time.
Good luck and keep fishing,
Gary
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Strike Master Lazer Mag Express Ice Auger
Well the ice fishing season is well under way as we are into February now. With the cold weather this year we have a lot of ice. Some lakes are up to 30” of ice and some auger extensions will be needed, especially if the cold weather stays in place through the end of the month. By now you have drilled many holes and you either love you auger or hate it. Now’s not the time to have an ice auger that doesn’t cut well or isn’t very reliable. My wife wanted to get me one big present for Christmas which was great. I told her if you get me one just one, I want the Strike Master Lazer Mag Express. I used the Jiffy STX Pro and the Strike Master and liked the Lazer Mag Express better. It cuts much smother and does not collect ice in the auger. It saves from pulling the auger out of the hole to free the ice and then go back down to continue cutting the hole.
The Jiffy bogs down much more and doesn’t seem to have the torque the Strike Master does. I’ve had my Lazer Mag Express for 5 years now. I have never changed or sharpened my blades and it still cuts like butter. The only maintenance I’ve done is change the spark plug this year. It runs like a top and starts on 1 or 2 pulls, always. I was recently out fishing with a very popular fishing guide in the Midwest who fishes over 300 days a year and he’s a Jiffy guy. But after he used my Strike Master Lazer Mag Express, he was hooked and went out and bought one. He cuts thousands of holes every winter and said it cuts without putting any force on the auger and is faster. Remember time is money to a fishing guide.
The Lazer Mag Express has a 8” or 10” auger with a 42” drilling auger depth, has a 2hp Tecumseh engine, with steel blades and a powder-coated auger. The 8” model weighs only 24lbs. and the 10” is 27lbs. From my experience the Strike Master Lazer Mag Express 8” is faster and much smoother on the cut than the Jiffy. The 8” runs about $425 If that’s a bit high on price get the Strike Master Mag 2000 ice auger, it has the single chipper auger and is available in 8 ¾” and 10 ¼” cuts and the 8 ¼” runs about $399. - Gary
Check out the StrikeMaster Mag 2000 Power Ice Auger
The Jiffy bogs down much more and doesn’t seem to have the torque the Strike Master does. I’ve had my Lazer Mag Express for 5 years now. I have never changed or sharpened my blades and it still cuts like butter. The only maintenance I’ve done is change the spark plug this year. It runs like a top and starts on 1 or 2 pulls, always. I was recently out fishing with a very popular fishing guide in the Midwest who fishes over 300 days a year and he’s a Jiffy guy. But after he used my Strike Master Lazer Mag Express, he was hooked and went out and bought one. He cuts thousands of holes every winter and said it cuts without putting any force on the auger and is faster. Remember time is money to a fishing guide.
The Lazer Mag Express has a 8” or 10” auger with a 42” drilling auger depth, has a 2hp Tecumseh engine, with steel blades and a powder-coated auger. The 8” model weighs only 24lbs. and the 10” is 27lbs. From my experience the Strike Master Lazer Mag Express 8” is faster and much smoother on the cut than the Jiffy. The 8” runs about $425 If that’s a bit high on price get the Strike Master Mag 2000 ice auger, it has the single chipper auger and is available in 8 ¾” and 10 ¼” cuts and the 8 ¼” runs about $399. - Gary
Check out the StrikeMaster Mag 2000 Power Ice Auger
Sunday, January 4, 2009
Frabill Ice Fishing Pail Pack and Ice Skimmer
Ice fishing without my Frabill Pail Pack just wouldn’t be the same. It keeps all my gear organized, and my ice rods tangled free. I put my ice rods, scoopers, and wooden tip ups on the outside of my bucket. That frees up the inside for my catch, or other lures, and accessories. When ice fishing, you want to be very organized and only carry out what you need. The Frabill Pail Pack keeps it simple. These are a pretty hot item and may be sold out, but you check Fleet Farm, Cabela's, Bass Pro Shops or Dicks Sporting Goods.
Another great tool to have is the Frabill Ice Skimmer with the 30" Handle. This model features Polypropylene reinforced nylon construction, a 30-in engraved ruler on the handle and a large scoop to remove ice shavings more effectively. The long handle design prevents stress on your back, less bending over to keep the ice clear. The ruler comes in handy to measure the ice thickness too. - Gary
Frabill Ice Skimmer with 30" handle only $12.99
Friday, December 19, 2008
Frabill Panfish Popper Plus Spinning Rod and Reel
Well, we are back from a short break and getting geared up for the Ice Fishing Season. This Frabill Panfish Popper Plus is a great little Panfish combo, I use mine for Perch, Bluegills, and Crappies. It has a built in spring bobber for those light biting fish. It has a fast taper for extra sensitivity, and micro ice guides for less freeze ups. It’s matched with the Frabill P-10 spinning reel, which is made for cold weather with subzero lubrication. If you spool it with 4lb Fireline Micro Ice you can’t go wrong. This Frabill Panfish Popper Plus Spinning Rod and Reel Ice Fishing Combo also has the backbone for the occasional Walleye. It also includes a set of jigs and spinners, so you're ready to jig immediately.
The Panfish Popper Plus Rod and Reel Features: Ultra-sensitive micro spring bobber detects even the subtlest nibbles of finicky Panfish. Tapered cork handles with blank through construction for greater sensitivity. Solid composite blanks deliver full transition flex Ultra-fast tapers designed specifically for Panfish jigging. Lightweight micro ice guides for less freeze-up. I recommend it because I have one, and I love it! - Gary
Check out the Frabill PanFish Popper Plus Spinning Rod and Reel Ice Fishing Combos for only $24.99
The Panfish Popper Plus Rod and Reel Features: Ultra-sensitive micro spring bobber detects even the subtlest nibbles of finicky Panfish. Tapered cork handles with blank through construction for greater sensitivity. Solid composite blanks deliver full transition flex Ultra-fast tapers designed specifically for Panfish jigging. Lightweight micro ice guides for less freeze-up. I recommend it because I have one, and I love it! - Gary
Check out the Frabill PanFish Popper Plus Spinning Rod and Reel Ice Fishing Combos for only $24.99
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